The 5 Main Red Grapes of Bordeaux
Cabernet Sauvignon
- Color> Very deep purple ink color
- Key aromas/flavors> Blackberry, blackcurrants, cassis, cigar, tobacco, olives, eucalyptus, vanilla, cedar wood, pencil shavings and cigar box
- Lots of acidity and tannin
- If somewhat under-ripe can be lean, tart and often smells very grassy, leafy or “herbaceous”
- Can have a dusty or mineral quality
- Cab is king in California. Mistaken cross-blend of Cabernet Franc & Sauvignon Blanc in 18C.
- Most important variety in Medoc and Graves, especially for the grand crus.
- Markedly tannic when young but develops great finesse and complexity
- Hardy variety that has a thick skin and is a late ripener
- Does best in gravelly soils and has a relatively low yield.
- Adds the backbone, structure and aging potential to the blend.
Merlot
- Color> ruby red and full-bodied
- Can be more about texture (soft, rounded and fruity, easy to enjoy without food) than flavor
- At its best it is succulent and silky, with velvety tannins: ‘smooth’
- Key aromas/flavors> Cherry, blueberry, strawberry, raspberries, blackberry, mint, beef broth; rich, spicy plumy sort of appeal of a rich fruitcake; gunshot, pheasant, and gamey
- Most important variety in St. Emilion and Pomerol but also important in the Medoc and Graves since it harmonizes so well with Cabernet Sauvignon.
- Wines deep in color, less tannic and higher in alcohol than Cabernet Sauvignon
- Does well in clay, where Cabernet Sauvignon does less well
- Early ripener and generous yielder but susceptible to rot in wet weather
- Plump and round, it helps make a blend amiable at a younger age.
Cabernet Franc
- Color> Lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon
- Similar to Cab Sauv, but usually more herbaceous, lighter bodied and color; and lower tannins
- Key aromas/flavors> roses, violets, flowery, much more giving of aromas than Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, pencil shavings (wood part) aroma
- The original Cabernet grape
- Characteristics somewhere between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
- In St. Emilion it is generally known as “Bouchet”
- In Bordeaux it ripens more easily and in difficult years produces much sweeter, more balanced fruit than Cabernet Sauvignon.
- The cool soils of St. Emilion and Pomerol hardly ever ripen Cabernet Sauvignon, whereas Franc thrives there
- More productive and ripens slightly earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon
Malbec
- Color> Deep purple
- Like a cross between Cabernet Franc and Merlot
- Contributes a soft character, Soothing ripe, tannic structure.
- Key aromas/flavors> damsons, violet aromas, perfumed, tobacco leaf
- Known as “Cot” in Cahors (“black wine of Cahors”)
- Used to be particularly important in Fronsac, Pomerol and the Cotes de Bourg, as well as having a minor role in most Medoc vineyards
- Many chateaux still have a few old Malbec vines left.
- High-yielding, early ripening variety
- Slightly coarse it tends to lack finesse; adds fatness of texture
- Tends to “flip-flop” one year of reasonable crop followed by a year with significantly less; thus less economic for growers; also tendency to “shatter”
- Consumers far more likely to see it in the Argentina section (46,000 acres - #1 red)
Petit Verdot
- Color> Dark, black and inky
- Tannin-rich, strongly acidic but with a fine nose.
- Very concentrated, a “seasoning”, spicy
- Key aromas/flavors> violet aromas
- French translation – “little greenie”
- Used in small quantities in the Medoc, especially on the lighter soils of Margaux, but is of declining importance
- It is late in ripening and produced highly colored wines with strong tannin and adds complexity to wines for long ageing.
- When added to a blend it helps determine the individual character of a chateau’s wine
| Comparison – Bordeaux versus “North Coast” of California |
|
Bordeaux |
“North Coast” |
| Planted “bearing” acreage |
300,000 |
122,071 |
| Wineries |
6,000
70 million cases |
965
30 million cases |
| Regulations |
Grape varieties and
planting density highly
regulated |
Open decisions the owner can make |
| Labeling |
Second Labels |
“Reserve” wines or
a Meritage wine |
| Vineyards |
Balance of old vines which produce higher quality vines: new to 80+yrs old. Planted in rotational system |
Most vines 10 to 20 yrs planted at same time |
| Climate |
Temperate climate on Atlantic seaboard |
Hot days but cool nights due to the bay & ocean |
| Heat Summation |
Can have difficulty getting grapes fully ripe in some years Alcohol 11%-12% |
Typically blessed with “Indian Summers” Can be 13%-15% Alc. |
| Vintage |
Fickle climate means vintage is important |
Has had 11 vintages in a row rated 85 to 95. |
| Grape Varietals |
Each chateau has its own balance of the 5 varietals depending on its soil and climate |
Generally don’t have Cab Franc, Malbec or Petit Verdot |
| Acreage by Varietal |
Estimates |
2005 Data |
Cabernet Sauvignon
|
72,000 |
34,311 |
Merlot
|
172,000 |
16,913 |
Cabernet Franc
|
33,590 |
1,905 |
Malbec
|
1,000 |
453 |
Petit Verdot
|
3,000 |
601 |
| Barrels |
Made from the best forests in France (225 litres/ 59 gallons) |
Top producers use exactly the same barrels as the Bordelaise |
| Winemaking Techniques |
Traditional methods handed down |
Quick to innovate; new technology |
How a Blend is Made
- Top producers make wine in small “lots” (not in 100,000 gallon stainless steel tanks)
- “Free-run” and pressed juice
- New barrels as well as old barrels are used
- French barrels and American barrels
- Many, many “blending trials” are done - “A” versus “B”, head-on-head
- Thousands of permutations possible
- Ultimately, a subjective decision based on the winemaker’s palette
- Biggest influence on the unique character of the wine in priority order:
- Appellation (the “terroir”)
- Final varietal blend
- Oak barrel treatment
- “Lessons Learned” from blending (some contrary to intuition):
- You can have “too much of a good thing”
- You can get poor results blending two great wines
- Sometimes a very small amount of one wine grape added to a blend tips it negatively
- Some grapes don’t take as well to blending
“Meritage” Wines from Califonia
The basic concept of blending embodies an idea express 2,300 years ago by Aristotle: “The whole is greater than the sum of its parts.”
Only ten known “Meritage” (rhymes with heritage) wines in California with all 5 of the main Bordeaux varietals:
Suggested Retail Price |
Vintage |
%CS |
%Mer |
%CF |
%Mal |
%PV |
Opus One (Napa) |
$155 |
2002 |
86 |
6 |
3 |
4 |
1 |
Pahlmeyer Red (Napa) |
$110 |
2002 |
75 |
22 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
Cain 5 (Napa) |
$100 |
2002 |
43 |
19 |
20 |
5 |
13 |
Ch. St. Jean Cinq Cepage (Sonoma) |
$75 |
2002 |
? but has all 5 in the cuvee |
Lancaster Estate (Sonoma) |
$75 |
2002 |
88 |
2 |
5 |
4 |
1 |
| Deerfield Ranch Meritage (Napa) |
$50 |
2002 |
44 |
15 |
20 |
12 |
9 |
Geyser Peak Reserve (Sonoma) |
$49 |
2003 |
67 |
14 |
1 |
12 |
6 |
| Ferrari-Carano Tresor (Sonoma) |
$48 |
2002 |
73 |
10 |
1 |
13 |
3 |
| Beringer’s Alluvium (Napa) |
$30 |
2003 |
15 |
76 |
3 |
3 |
3 |
Yorkville Cellars (Mendocino)
Richard the Lion-Heart |
$34 |
2002 |
36 |
16 |
16 |
16 |
16 |
|
|
|
|
Some Others with 3 or 4 Grapes
Suggested Retail Price |
Vintage |
%CS |
%Mer |
%CF |
%Mal |
%PV |
Dominus (Napa) |
$128 |
2002 |
85 |
3 |
8 |
0 |
4 |
Joseph Phelps’ Insignia (Napa) |
$125 |
2002 |
78 |
14 |
0 |
1 |
7 |
Mt. Veeder Reserve (Napa) |
$65 |
2002 |
90 |
5 |
3 |
2 |
0 |
Guenoc Meritage (Lake/Napa) |
$40 |
2001 |
85 |
2% Carmenere |
13 |
Franciscan Magnificant (Napa) |
$50 |
2002 |
70 |
29 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
Beaulieu’s Tapestry (Napa) |
$50 |
2002 |
81 |
13 |
3 |
0 |
3 |
| White Rock Claret (Napa) |
$45 |
2002 |
70 |
13 |
13 |
0 |
4 |
| DeLormier Mosiac (Sonoma) |
$40 |
2001 |
72 |
18 |
0 |
0 |
10 |
| Duckhorn’s Decoy (Napa) |
$28 |
2004 |
49 |
22 |
14 |
0 |
15 |
|