Yorkville Cellars Organic Wine
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The 5 Main Red Grapes of Bordeaux

Cabernet Sauvignon

  • Color> Very deep purple ink color
  • Key aromas/flavors> Blackberry, blackcurrants, cassis, cigar, tobacco, olives, eucalyptus, vanilla, cedar wood, pencil shavings and cigar box
  • Lots of acidity and tannin
  • If somewhat under-ripe can be lean, tart and often smells very grassy, leafy or “herbaceous”
  • Can have a dusty or mineral quality
  • Cab is king in California. Mistaken cross-blend of Cabernet Franc & Sauvignon Blanc in 18C.
  • Most important variety in Medoc and Graves, especially for the grand crus.
  • Markedly tannic when young but develops great finesse and complexity
  • Hardy variety that has a thick skin and is a late ripener
  • Does best in gravelly soils and has a relatively low yield.
  • Adds the backbone, structure and aging potential to the blend.

Merlot

  • Color> ruby red and full-bodied
  • Can be more about texture (soft, rounded and fruity, easy to enjoy without food) than flavor
  • At its best it is succulent and silky, with velvety tannins: ‘smooth’
  • Key aromas/flavors> Cherry, blueberry, strawberry, raspberries, blackberry, mint, beef broth; rich, spicy plumy sort of appeal of a rich fruitcake; gunshot, pheasant, and gamey
  • Most important variety in St. Emilion and Pomerol but also important in the Medoc and Graves since it harmonizes so well with Cabernet Sauvignon.
  • Wines deep in color, less tannic and higher in alcohol than Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Does well in clay, where Cabernet Sauvignon does less well
  • Early ripener and generous yielder but susceptible to rot in wet weather
  • Plump and round, it helps make a blend amiable at a younger age.


Cabernet Franc

  • Color> Lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Similar to Cab Sauv, but usually more herbaceous, lighter bodied and color; and lower tannins
  • Key aromas/flavors> roses, violets, flowery, much more giving of aromas than Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, pencil shavings (wood part) aroma
  • The original Cabernet grape
  • Characteristics somewhere between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
  • In St. Emilion it is generally known as “Bouchet”
  • In Bordeaux it ripens more easily and in difficult years produces much sweeter, more balanced fruit than Cabernet Sauvignon.
  • The cool soils of St. Emilion and Pomerol hardly ever ripen Cabernet Sauvignon, whereas Franc thrives there
  • More productive and ripens slightly earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon

Malbec

  • Color> Deep purple
  • Like a cross between Cabernet Franc and Merlot
  • Contributes a soft character, Soothing ripe, tannic structure.
  • Key aromas/flavors> damsons, violet aromas, perfumed, tobacco leaf
  • Known as “Cot” in Cahors (“black wine of Cahors”)
  • Used to be particularly important in Fronsac, Pomerol and the Cotes de Bourg, as well as having a minor role in most Medoc vineyards
  • Many chateaux still have a few old Malbec vines left.
  • High-yielding, early ripening variety
  • Slightly coarse it tends to lack finesse; adds fatness of texture
  • Tends to “flip-flop” one year of reasonable crop followed by a year with significantly less; thus less economic for growers; also tendency to “shatter”
  • Consumers far more likely to see it in the Argentina section (46,000 acres - #1 red)

Petit Verdot

  • Color> Dark, black and inky
  • Tannin-rich, strongly acidic but with a fine nose.
  • Very concentrated, a “seasoning”, spicy
  • Key aromas/flavors> violet aromas
  • French translation – “little greenie”
  • Used in small quantities in the Medoc, especially on the lighter soils of Margaux, but is of declining importance
  • It is late in ripening and produced highly colored wines with strong tannin and adds complexity to wines for long ageing.
  • When added to a blend it helps determine the individual character of a chateau’s wine
Comparison – Bordeaux versus “North Coast” of California
Bordeaux
“North Coast”
Planted “bearing” acreage
300,000
122,071
Wineries
6,000
70 million cases
965
30 million cases
Regulations
Grape varieties and
planting density highly
regulated
Open decisions the owner can make
Labeling
Second Labels
“Reserve” wines or
a Meritage wine
Vineyards
Balance of old vines which produce higher quality vines: new to 80+yrs old. Planted in rotational system
Most vines 10 to 20 yrs planted at same time
Climate
Temperate climate on Atlantic seaboard
Hot days but cool nights due to the bay & ocean
Heat Summation
Can have difficulty getting grapes fully ripe in some years Alcohol 11%-12%
Typically blessed with “Indian Summers” Can be 13%-15% Alc.
Vintage
Fickle climate means vintage is important
Has had 11 vintages in a row rated 85 to 95.
Grape Varietals
Each chateau has its own balance of the 5 varietals depending on its soil and climate
Generally don’t have Cab Franc, Malbec or Petit Verdot
Acreage by Varietal
Estimates
2005 Data

Cabernet Sauvignon

72,000
34,311

Merlot

172,000
16,913

Cabernet Franc

33,590
1,905

Malbec

1,000
453

Petit Verdot

3,000
601
Barrels
Made from the best forests in France (225 litres/ 59 gallons)
Top producers use exactly the same barrels as the Bordelaise
Winemaking Techniques
Traditional methods handed down
Quick to innovate; new technology



How a Blend is Made

  • Top producers make wine in small “lots” (not in 100,000 gallon stainless steel tanks)
  • “Free-run” and pressed juice
  • New barrels as well as old barrels are used
  • French barrels and American barrels
  • Many, many “blending trials” are done - “A” versus “B”, head-on-head
  • Thousands of permutations possible
  • Ultimately, a subjective decision based on the winemaker’s palette
  • Biggest influence on the unique character of the wine in priority order:
    • Appellation (the “terroir”)
    • Final varietal blend
    • Oak barrel treatment
  • “Lessons Learned” from blending (some contrary to intuition):
    • You can have “too much of a good thing”
    • You can get poor results blending two great wines
    • Sometimes a very small amount of one wine grape added to a blend tips it negatively
    • Some grapes don’t take as well to blending

“Meritage” Wines from Califonia
The basic concept of blending embodies an idea express 2,300 years ago by Aristotle: “The whole is greater than the sum of its parts.”

Only ten known “Meritage” (rhymes with heritage) wines in California with all 5 of the main Bordeaux varietals:

Suggested Retail Price
Vintage
%CS
%Mer
%CF
%Mal
%PV
Opus One (Napa)
$155
2002
86
6
3
4
1
Pahlmeyer Red (Napa)
$110
2002
75
22
1
1
1
Cain 5 (Napa)
$100
2002
43
19
20
5
13
Ch. St. Jean Cinq Cepage (Sonoma)
$75
2002
   ? but has all 5 in the cuvee
Lancaster Estate (Sonoma)
$75
2002
88
2
5
4
1
Deerfield Ranch Meritage (Napa)
$50
2002
44
15
20
12
9
Geyser Peak Reserve (Sonoma)
$49
2003
67
14
1
12
6
Ferrari-Carano Tresor (Sonoma)
$48
2002
73
10
1
13
3
Beringer’s Alluvium (Napa)
$30
2003
15
76
3
3
3
Yorkville Cellars (Mendocino)
Richard the Lion-Heart
$34
2002
36
16
16
16
16

Some Others with 3 or 4 Grapes

Suggested Retail Price
Vintage
%CS
%Mer
%CF
%Mal
%PV
Dominus (Napa)
$128
2002
85
3
8
0
4
Joseph Phelps’ Insignia (Napa)
$125
2002
78
14
0
1
7
Mt. Veeder Reserve (Napa)
$65
2002
90
5
3
2
0
Guenoc Meritage (Lake/Napa)
$40
2001
85
2% Carmenere
13
Franciscan Magnificant (Napa)
$50
2002
70
29
0
0
1
Beaulieu’s Tapestry (Napa)
$50
2002
81
13
3
0
3
White Rock Claret (Napa)
$45
2002
70
13
13
0
4
DeLormier Mosiac (Sonoma)
$40
2001
72
18
0
0
10
Duckhorn’s Decoy (Napa)
$28
2004
49
22
14
0
15

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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